Review by John Delia
With all the food shows on TV these days what makes the movie City of Gold unique? The documentary has one main character, it involves on camera making of food, and the critic eats and gives his opinion about the dishes and the restaurant. What stands out the most however, comes from a novel idea and the reputation food critic Jonathan Gold has built. One where the show is never staged and the restaurant he drops into never knows when he will show up or if at all.
Over many years Jonathan Gold has been a writer in Los Angeles and other publications even winning a Pulitzer Prize for criticism. It is the first and only Pulitzer that has gone to a food critic. His demeanor, approach to food and the restaurants takes a different turn then most writers in the business. Jonathan delves into mom and pop eateries to high class haute cuisine, but mostly honing in on ethnic dives and spreading the word on even the smallest.
The restaurants know of him and even fear the critic not knowing when or even if he will show up at their dining establishment. It’s something you can’t get ready for and Johnathan even disguises himself at times and always enters a restaurant unannounced. Even the Taco Truck better have the best food all the time as he frequents even the mobile and cart vendors as well.
The documentary itself may be a little self-serving and showy at times, much like the TV programs “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives”,” Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown” or “Bizare Foods with Andrew Zimmern”. But, City of Gold is really more of a tribute to the man who may have been the forerunner that spurned those many food critics that align themselves with Jonathan. Sure there’s early productions like Julia Child and completive cooking like “Chopped” or “Top Chef”, but were not talking food prep here. It’s the eating from restaurant chefs and cooks that serve the populace day after day that are the target. Letting people know about the most vastly spread businesses in America and the world. And we’re not talking fast food McDonalds, Burger King or Wendy’s, although some businesses do take on that genre from street corner carts to mobile units at parks and fairs.
I enjoyed watching the documentary, but I fear I’ve only touched the tip of the ice berg when it comes to giving a critical essay on the film. Some things are best left unsaid as you’ll discover when you go to see this one-of-a kind film at your local theater. Please check your local listings for a showing in your city or look for the film when it gets released on DVD.
FINAL ANALYSIS: Not your average Food show. (B+)
Additional Film Information:
Cast: Jonathan Gold
Directed by: Laura Gabbert
Genre: Documentary, Food
MPAA Rating: R for some language
Running Time: 1 hr. 31 min.
Release Date: April 1, 2016
Distributed by: Sundance Selects